Please use the interactive diagram below to understand Mogens' journey or try the non-Flash version.
Camping to the summit
There are two main routes, north and south. Neither is easy, but Mogens took the north route, which is regarded as more challenging than the
south route.
There are several camps where Mogens rested and recovered before his final
attempt at the summit. The Base Camp (BC) is at 5,200m. At 6,400m and 22km
from BC, the Advanced Base Camp (ABC) is the base for several more camps
that Mogens used in his acclimatisation process and the summit attempt.
An interim camp is made about half way between BC and ABC and this climb
takes two days.
Camp 1 is at 7,000m, Camp 2 at 7,500m, Camp 3 at 7,900m and Camp 4 at 8,300m
- 550m from the summit. For Mogens, summit day was from Camp 4, and the attempt
started at midnight. He had hoped to reach the summit at 9-10am and then go down as
far as they could, finishing at 5-6pm before darkness set in.
Summit (8,850m)
Most who reach the summit stay for only minutes, due to the severe climate and having to descend back to Camp 4 before dark.
Camp 4 (8,300m)
With most expeditions, the high camps are used for further acclimatisation as the team members attempt to climb to the summit during the next few weeks. In the high camps, each individual climber must take care of their own cooking.
Oxygen becomes a requirement at Camp 4. This camp is small in comparison to other camps and finding something with which to anchor tents is difficult. The journey to the summit starts in the early morning hours.
If Mogens makes it to this point and is feeling well, there is a good chance weather permitting that he’ll make it to the summit.
According to accounts of those who have reached the Northeast Ridge, the view is spectacular if you can see through your oxygen mask, which makes it hard to see your feet.
Camp 3 (7,800m)
With most expeditions, the high camps are used for further acclimatisation as the team members attempt to climb to the summit during the next few weeks. In the high camps, each individual climber must take care of their own cooking.
This is the first hard step on the climb. At this height, some expedition members may require oxygen even during sleep. Any personal equipment must be carried by the climber and not by Sherpas. Tents are tied down to anything the Sherpas can find (debris left by other expeditions included) and anchored with nets and ropes. The roar of the wind is deafening. Many climbers wear earplugs or listen to music to drown out the noise.
The wind often diminishes above Camp 3 as this is where the North Ridge merges with the North Face causing a strange wind effect. The climb from Camp 3 to Camp 4 is over snow, rock, and ice. There is a fixed rope to help climbers follow the safest route. Oxygen becomes a requirement as Camp 4 nears.
Camp 2 (7,500m)
With most expeditions, the high camps are used for further acclimatisation as the team members attempt to climb to the summit during the next few weeks. In the high camps, each individual climber must take care of their own cooking.
This is the first of three high camps in which sherpas set up the camps ahead of time including tents, stoves, gas, sleeping pads, and food. The route to Camp 3 is mainly snow until around 8,000m. From that point on team members must trudge through snow and rocks. The real problem is the wind. Fixed ropes help guide each climber and offer some security. A slip on this route be fatal by way of the slope leading to the Rongbuk Glacier.
North Col Camp 1 (7,100m)
The camp at North Col is extremely windy. A pronounced ridge stretches from the North Col up towards the Northeast Ridge which is met at 8,383m. The lower portion of this route is an easy snow ridge. Further up, there is a mix of rocky terrace and steep terrain with a trace of a trail. In this area, there are several possibilities to pitch a tent. They differ in the amount of space available and the exposure to the winds.
Camping to the summit
There are two main routes, north and south. Neither is easy, but Mogens is
taking the north route, which is regarded as more challenging than the
south route.
There are several camps where Mogens will rest and recover before his final
push to the summit. The Base Camp (BC) is at 5,200m. At 6,400m and 22km
from BC, the Advanced Base Camp (ABC) is the base for several more camps
that Mogens is using in his acclimatisation process and the summit attempt.
An interim camp is made about half way between BC and ABC and this climb
takes two days.
Camp 1 is at 7,000m, Camp 2 at 7,500m, Camp 3 at 7,900m and Camp 4 at 8,300m
- 550m from the summit. For Mogens, summit day is from Camp 4, and the attempt
starts at midnight. "We should reach the summit at 9-10am and then go down as
far as we can, finishing at 5-6pm before darkness sets in," says Mogens.