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• Last year's attempt

"I lost feeling in my toes. I had the choice of going to summit and returning without my toes, or turning back with my toes and trying again this year," says Mogens.

"It was a painful choice, but it was realistic to turn around. I'm not making excuses, but last year was the worst Everest weather for 15 years."

For his 2006 attempt, Mogens is wearing a pair of special soles in his climbing boots - they have inbuilt battery-charged heating elements.

Still photography (click for larger image)

For images and video clips of this year's attempt please visit the Gallery.

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